Leroy’s proprietor, Madame Lalou Bize enjoys an exalted reputation around the world for producing spectacular pinot noir - I’ve only ever tried a few as they are hellishly expensive and, generally, very difficult to source. This wine certainly hits the sweet spot, but for over two hundred dollars a bottle, I’ll be looking elsewhere in future.

Medium ruby with a rusty outer edge. Ethereal, sappy nose housing deepset spicy plum fruit supported by superb savoury, malty French oak. Top shelf. Gorgeously seductive, silky entry into the mouth with similarly-etched ripe plummy fruit, bright acidity and a fine, integrated tannin regime few could emulate. The finish is awfully long, smooth as, with an awesome sappy aftertaste. Again, if I have to be brutally honest, I found the wine to lack a little bang for the big bucks. 92 points. Drink now-2012. Bottle number 122 of only 290 produced! 13% A/V.