Glowing yellow gold. Enticing bouquet of citrus, toast, ripe pineapple, peach, green apples and passionfruit with a distinct suggestion of minerals. Similarly fruited on the palate, not classical by any stretch of the imagination, nonetheless, nicely poised and quite polished. Of medium-weight, beautifully etched and integrated acid regime with plenty of that same ripe fruit running throughout a lengthy sweet’n’sour finish. Excellent, albeit slightly atypical for this label (in this case, a declassified Leonay), maker and many bottles of same opened over the the last several years. 90 points. Drink now-2010.

Seventy-year old, dry grown, ungrafted Shiraz vines planted on the eastern side of the Barossa Ranges provide the basis for the iconic label from this famous family-run estate. Having drunk Henschke’s red wines for more than twenty years, this particular vintage of Mount Edelstone rates up there with the ‘78, ‘82, ’86, ‘88, ’90, ‘91, ‘92 and ‘93 as one of the best I’ve tried. Unfortunately, over recent years some well-documented incidences of brettanomyces and some difficult vintages have resulted in some indifferent publicity for C. A. Henschke & Co.. I’m confident, with the very well-received recent release of the 2002 reds, Stephen and Prue have got the ship back to into shape and before long will be back on the lofty pedestal on which they were revered by most critics and wine lover’s, the world over. Let’s hope that Mother Nature holds her part of the bargain on a more regular basis, too!

Still holding a youthful medium ruby with some purple hues, this terrific wine exudes an exquisite nose of integrated bitter chocolate, macerated plum and mulberry, some forest floor character over seductive, seasoned vanilla/savoury/spicy/mocha oak and the merest suggestion of, what I consider, most appealing dimethyl sulphide (cassis, green bean and sweet corn). In the mouth, the creamy old vine texture imparts a sense of smoothness and sophistication. Riddled with exact nuance found in the bouquet, I could not detect the alcohol by volume of fouteen point two per cent, such is the intensity and purity of fruit with the complex oak, again, playing a minor supportive role on only a medium-bodied frame. There’s enough bright acidity giving the wine freshness and vitality and the tannins are uber sleek and very fine - both near-perfectly meshed as this gem glides down the throat. To complete the picture, the finish is awfully long, quite elegant and harmonious with, you guessed it, the old vine fruit doing most of the talking. Outstanding. 94 points. Drink now-2014. The best bottle I’ve tried thus far (and I’m onto my second case).     

Supposedly a ‘declassified’ Leonay, this wine continues to evolve slowly and surely with excellent mid- to long-term prospects. 12% A/V. Sealed under cork.

Glowing straw/light gold with a tinge of green. Reveals an ethereal bouquet of blossoms, minerals, toast, lime, a hint of petrol and the merest suggestion of passionfruit. The palate follows along identical lines displaying wonderful purity and definition, crunchy fruit, terrific acid cut, superb balance and a crisp, refreshing finish of some duration. Drink now-2015. Verging on an outstanding rating. 90 points.

Holding a very deep ruby with only a touch of brick in the edge. Quintessential minty Coonawarra Cabernet bouquet of weedy blakcurrants, spicy/cedary/savoury oak, freshly turned sod, fresh sweet corn, some leafiness and a hint of lift at the death. The medium-weight palate continues the high standard with gorgeous flavours of dusty blackcurrants, complimentary savoury oak, some menthol/mint regional character, lively acidity and some grainy, firmish tannin. Seemingly needs more time to fully mesh and soften. Excellent resolute finish with much promise for the long haul. Amazing wine for what it is. 92 points. Drink now-2016 13.5% A/V

Drunk the remainder of the bottle 24 hours later with the firm tannins/finish smoothing out beautifully. Not a sign of oxidation either. Super wine!     

Screwcap. 12% A/V

Colour is bright straw with a petrolly nose over lime, a dash of honey and a hint of toast lurking underneath. Still fresh on the palate although slightly phenolic with crunchy lime and toasty fruit married to well-integrated acids. Finishes a little short. A much more impressive wine at release. I’d opt for drinking this sooner than later. 83 points.  

I’ve waxed lyrical about this wine from release, purchasing two dozen (not by choice, but as fate has it, a dozen each in cork and screwcap) and with some slightly disappointing commentary on various boards of late, decided to try another cork-sealed version to verify the concerns of the “Doubting Thomas’s”.

Firstly, I’ve seen no bottle variation under cork thus far - the wine continues to impress and has considerable time on its side. Again, I rate this as the best Petaluma Riesling ever made.

A bright, very pale straw/green colour, this superb Riesling, initially, delivers a reticent musky bouquet of white flowers before a flood of profound, intense, quintessential Clare lime and green apple fruit with a rivetting back-end of minerals and slate building in intensity and posture with airing. In the mouth the purity and crispness of the classic lime, Granny Smith and honeysuckle fruit is perfectly counterbalnced with a chalky minerality; packs plenty of punch, finishing very dry and long, the cleansing acidity providing focus and superb delineation. A brilliant wine! 94 points. Drink anytime from now-2017. 12% A/V