For those unaware about this domaine, this vineyard belonged to Bruno Clair’s mother, Genevieve Bartet. Until 1998, the wine was sold under the label Domain G. Bartet with Bruno controlling the cultivation and vinification since 1986. As from the 1999 vintage the wine has been marketed under the Domaine Bruno Clair label.

For those lovers of funky, feral Burgundy’s, this wine’s aromatics delivers in spades. Thankfully, allowing the wine to rest (i.e. no swirling), the damp earth, sous bois and barnyard dissipates to allow attractive aromas of sap, satsuma and well-hung game to provide a greater degree of interest and pleasure with suggestions of cardamon, smoke and malty oak following as top notes later. The palate appeals from the outset - typical for the vintage - revealing a tight personality, slightly green tinge to the plummy/cherry fruit, awash with bright acids and firm, resolute tannins, a decent departure and probably at least another decade of cellaring potential. 88 points today with a chance of a slightly higher score if the “cool” fruit can hold up while the acid and tannin soften and integrate. Very good indeed and verging on excellent, but no better on tonight’s performance. 13.5% A/V

Displaying an elegant light ruby with only a modicum of maturity in the edges this classy Pinot reveals amazingly fresh and attractive aromatics of sappy red cherries, minerals, game and integrated new spicy French oak. The medium-bodied palate delivers an instant replay of the descriptors found in the bouquet along with a crunchy succulence, melting fine-grained tannins, excellent length but retains vitality and freshness from some lively acidity. I’ve been impressed with the rare elegance of this particular wine since release and believe it will last for up to a decade if stored in pristine cellaring conditions (although ready to go now). 92 points. A great effort from a difficult vintage!

Substantial bricking belies the fresh and lively bouquet that houses deepset black fruit offset by strong malty/savoury oak, freshly turned sod of earth, game and pinot sap with intriguing faint top notes of miso, soy, ginger and cinnamon stick. The thumbprint of Burgundy’s 1996 Pinot’s - cool fruit, high acidity and potential for extended longevity plasters itself all over the palate. Unlike the 1996 Echezeaux from the same Domaine, the Ruchottes displays the requisite level of ripeness with no “green” or “rough” edges. The elegant, silky mouthfeel sits perfectly with fine lacy tannins and perky acidity that offer the correct amount of grip for this slightly austere style with a finish that provides quite ample length and some decent authority. Drink 2010-2016. 93 points

I’ve enjoyed Esmonin’s Burgundies since the 1990 vintage and this wine certainly is up there with the best I’ve tried thus far.

Displays a saturated plummy red core with considerable rust in the edges. This wine possesses all the aromatic hallmarks of such a renowned cru from a top vintage - Asian spices, undergrowth, exotic mushrooms and sweet earth intermingle with deepset plummy/sappy fruit with a strong backdrop of savoury oak. The palate is drop-dead gorgeous, smooth and silky with creamy plum and cherry fruit, a nice dose of pinot sap, terrific integrated acidity and ripe, fine-grained tannins. The oak plays a secondary role here compared to what’s found in the bouquet. The finish is ripe, soft, long and savoury with enough grip to provide this taster with renewed invigoration for more. Lovely wine that drank every bit as well the second night without a trace of deterioration or oxidation. 92 points. Drink now-2016. 13.5% A/V    

Jean-Marie Fourrier’s spectacular efforts in restoring the reputation and fortunes of this once revered domaine are highlighted in this outstanding example of Red Burgundy.

Harbours a transluscent, bright light ruby/red core with some rust in the meniscus followed by a rivetting spicy, sappy, savoury bouquet of red fruits, mainly plum and cherry, earthy morellos, cardamon, spice box with a deft touch of undergrowth and seasoned oak. Compelling, charming, beautifully balanced and perfectly honed. Bravo! The palate continues the drill with similar aplomb - gorgeously silky and svelte in the mouth with a replica of nuance found on the nose, remarkably good acidity, a lovely touch of minerale and just brilliantly judged fine lacy tannins. To top things off the finish is smooth and awfully long with the fruit, acid and tannins persisting in complete harmony. Drinking incredibly well now, this brilliant “feminine” Pinot Noir has the necessary ingredients to live for many years at this extraordinary high level. 93 points 13.5% A/V