Fevre, supposedly, underwent a quantum leap in quality after being acquired by the revitalised Champagne house, Henriot, in 1998 (who, reportedly, also effected similar improvements with the purchase of Bouchard Pere et Fils in 1995). Having been in raptures after trying the 2000 Grand Cru “Valmur” (95 points), although a little less impressed by the promising but somewhat closed, “Les Clos” (91-93 points - a longer term proposition than the Valmur, perhaps, yet I am to be convinced it’s the better wine), I managed to procure just a few bottles of Fevre’s Premier Cru’s - “Montmains” and “Montee de Tonnerre” to further expand my horizons on this firm’s “improved’” performance. I am pleased to report this particular wine delivers the “goods” in spades.

Holding a youthful straw/green appearance with a polished hue, the effusive bouquet invokes a myriad of nuance - white flowers, meal, melon, lime, minerals, bacon fat and seaspray - this is the classic “Chablis” package - elusively enticing and pure, yet so complex and complete. In the mouth, this wine is just a mere pup - tight, steely with enormous reserves of mineral-tinged acidity - yet possesses an eerie grace but with an aura of unleashed power and unquestionable longevity. Flavours of green melon, lime, meal and a distinct calciferous note are followed by a crisp, minerally finish of some duration. Allusively subtle and focussed, this wine deserves careful extended cellaring to reach its full potential. Unfortunately, for someone like me, it would difficult to keep my hands off it on this current form. Another classic wine from Fevre and without any equivocation, deserves a rating of at least 93 points (with a bullet for something much higher, in due course). Drink now to 2020.

13% A/V. Sealed with a cork closure.

Recommended in Tom Stephenson’s 2007 Wine Report - Top 10 Greatest Quality Wines and Top Ten Best Bargains and selling for a tad over 60 bucks on special in case lot buys at a local wine store.

15 grands crus and 3 grape varieties (48% chardonnay, 48% pinot noir and 4% pinot meunier) 12% A/V

Medium straw with aggressive fine, persistent streams of bead. High quality nose of toasted brioche, redcurrants, citrus and figs with just a hint of vegemite. Fresh citrussy palate exhibiting a strong undertone of redcurrant, plenty of weight, creamy mouthfeel before a blast of exuberant crisp, cleansing acidity and excellent carry. A finely honed and particularly well balanced Champagne of some class. 92 points. Drink now-2013+

Comte de Vogue occupies a very special place in the top echelon of the Burgundy heirarchy. Unfortunately, over the many years of collecting and drinking fine wines from the Cote D’or, I’ve only tried this producer’s offerings on, perhaps, half a dozen occasions.

Fellow blogger, Dave Brookes (who also earns his bucks as Sydney Auction Manager for Australia’s leading wine auctioneers, Langtons) kindly brought a bottle of 1983 de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny to my place earlier this year which, after a very shaky start, unfolded and blossomed in the glass into a glorious Burgundy worthy of an outstanding rating. A great effort, particularly for a village wine and a difficult vintage where hail and then rot caused considerable problems across the Cote.

Excellent juice. Typically for Chambolle, not a great depth of colour and just a bit too oaky (for me) on the nose just at the moment but underneath the sappy/musky Pinot fruit was trying its best to make some sort of counterbalancing statement. The palate tells a different story with ripe glossy red cherries, green plums and even a touch of blackberry to the fore, the acidity/oak/tannin balance is nigh spot on and the finish is exemplary - everything sitting on a medium-bodied, relatively elegant platform. Probably will merit a higher score later (give it 3-4 years), but on last night’s performance somewhere around 90/91. Drink 2010-2015.
  

 Gorgeous bright lemon gold. Fantastic exuburent, spicy, honeyed nose of musky florals, rose petals and lychee sitting over exotic tropical fruit followed by an unctuous palate of creamy, oily, concentrated fruit mimicking the nose to a tee. Amazing mouthfeel, ohso pure, beguiling and utterly compelling - a hedonist’s delight - finishing quite soft but long with enough acidity to hold the whole equation together. Drink now or over the next few years. A flamboyant white worthy of a solid 93 points.

I’ve enjoyed Esmonin’s Burgundies since the 1990 vintage and this wine certainly is up there with the best I’ve tried thus far.

Displays a saturated plummy red core with considerable rust in the edges. This wine possesses all the aromatic hallmarks of such a renowned cru from a top vintage - Asian spices, undergrowth, exotic mushrooms and sweet earth intermingle with deepset plummy/sappy fruit with a strong backdrop of savoury oak. The palate is drop-dead gorgeous, smooth and silky with creamy plum and cherry fruit, a nice dose of pinot sap, terrific integrated acidity and ripe, fine-grained tannins. The oak plays a secondary role here compared to what’s found in the bouquet. The finish is ripe, soft, long and savoury with enough grip to provide this taster with renewed invigoration for more. Lovely wine that drank every bit as well the second night without a trace of deterioration or oxidation. 92 points. Drink now-2016. 13.5% A/V    

Transluscent medium-ruby with plenty of rust in the outer edges. Pronounced white meniscus. Heavenly perfumed bouquet of pinot sap, sour cherry and plum, a little sous bois, truffles, spice box and beautifully integrated savoury oak. Silky light- to medium-bodied palate with similarly etched fruit backed by the vintage thumbprint of elevated, but in this case, not overblown, acidity and fine-grained, sympathetic tannins. Finishes soft and long with a delicacy I enjoy with this winestyle. Excellent and definitely worth of a look now but should last/improve for many years to come. Went brilliantly with the most succulent marinated free range/drug-free chook slow-cooked in the Weber. 90 points.

A rivetting example of Alsace VT Riesling - quite an austere example compared to the Zind-Humbrecht “Clos Jesbal” Pinot Gris 1990 reviewed below - but no less rivetting. Perfectly balanced from start to finish with an incredible array of almost dry extract showing complex waxy apple curd, minerals, spicy botrytis notes and an eerie petroluem overlay. Superb mouthfeel, gorgeous integrated acid cut and a wonderful departure. 95 points on its’ ear.

Thanks be the Infant Legume for putting me onto this one!

Medium ruby core with immense bricking throughout the hue. Glorious mature nose of damp earth, cedar, dusty blackcurrants, satsuma plums, rosemary, thyme, savoury oak and a stunning top note of anise and sweet corn. Pure silk in the mouth, re-enacting the bouquet in nuance to a tee, magnificently plump but ohso soft and utterly captivating with melted fine tannins, surprisingly ripe acidity and a finish of thirty seconds and thensome. What is so rivetting about this Outstanding/Exceptional example of right-bank Merlot/Cabernet Franc is the glorious balance and integration of every component combined with that delicate underlying power that provides the backbone of greatness. 94 points.  

Last Saturday night I produced a bottle of this, one of my favourite LLC’s, to a group of wine lovers at a “posh” restaurant in Sydney. It was bordering on fair/good at best - I had trouble giving it above 80 points. Not within a bull’s roar on this one below, opened with two experienced wine tasters earlier this year.

“Still a very deep ruby with virtually no bricking. Powerful, masculine, minerally (almost ferrous) bouquet housing a brooding, classy mix of graphite, deep-set curranty fruit, briar, black olives, herbs and plenty of newish savoury oak. “Lots going on here”, was Tony’s first remark as he nosed the Riedel. Jamie’s “Ahhh …. Bordeaux!”, was also a good start (the wine had been decantered sometime before and masked at Jamie’s request). From the outset, we were all surprised and most impressed by this wines’ enormity and youthfulness, particularly for the vintage. If anything, the palate has quite a way to go to reach maturity. Again, fantastic quality of savoury fruit and oak, more of the brooding mineral/briar/olive character, of full body, excellent delineation, robust, firm tannins and great length. Over the next hour or two we sniffed, swirled and sipped our way through this Outstanding bottle of St. Julien until there was no more. My best sip was the last. Drink 2011-2025. 93 points”

Mature hue with flashes of light ruby in the core but mostly rust. Elegant, earthy, feminine nose of spices (cinammon and nutmeg), game, red cherries, green plums and a little rose hip backed by some varietal sap/tomato stalk and a nice complimentary touch of oak. Of light- to medium-body, the palate reveals an exemplary silky texture combined with a seductive delicateness only Pinot Noir can deliver. Although lighter in style, there is no lack of intensity in flavour with sappy notes of cherry and plum combining effortlessly with subtle savoury oak, lacy fine tannins, gorgeous ripe acidity and a resolute soft finish. Drinking beautifully now, this wine is fully mature and should be drunk over the next several years. Excellent for what it is. 89 points.