What an impressive first showing! Intensely steely and mineral-laden nose housing an abundance of rapier-like citrus (limes/lemons), oyster shell and seaspray. Similarly etched palate, although, surprisingly, quite generous and mouthfilling with typical Chablis grippy chalky/minerally acidity and an explosively long, invigorating finish. Went ohso well with the freshly shucked 3 year old Sydney rock oysters. Needs a calming year or two to be at its best but performed brilliantly in this instant with the oysters. Long cellaring window anticipated. 92 points

Fevre, supposedly, underwent a quantum leap in quality after being acquired by the revitalised Champagne house, Henriot, in 1998 (who, reportedly, also effected similar improvements with the purchase of Bouchard Pere et Fils in 1995). Having been in raptures after trying the 2000 Grand Cru “Valmur” (95 points), although a little less impressed by the promising but somewhat closed, “Les Clos” (91-93 points - a longer term proposition than the Valmur, perhaps, yet I am to be convinced it’s the better wine), I managed to procure just a few bottles of Fevre’s Premier Cru’s - “Montmains” and “Montee de Tonnerre” to further expand my horizons on this firm’s “improved’” performance. I am pleased to report this particular wine delivers the “goods” in spades.

Holding a youthful straw/green appearance with a polished hue, the effusive bouquet invokes a myriad of nuance - white flowers, meal, melon, lime, minerals, bacon fat and seaspray - this is the classic “Chablis” package - elusively enticing and pure, yet so complex and complete. In the mouth, this wine is just a mere pup - tight, steely with enormous reserves of mineral-tinged acidity - yet possesses an eerie grace but with an aura of unleashed power and unquestionable longevity. Flavours of green melon, lime, meal and a distinct calciferous note are followed by a crisp, minerally finish of some duration. Allusively subtle and focussed, this wine deserves careful extended cellaring to reach its full potential. Unfortunately, for someone like me, it would difficult to keep my hands off it on this current form. Another classic wine from Fevre and without any equivocation, deserves a rating of at least 93 points (with a bullet for something much higher, in due course). Drink now to 2020.

13% A/V. Sealed with a cork closure.

This very good, although sometimes variable, producer delivers the goods with this excellent Chardonnay from the 2000 vintage. At six years of age the wine’s colour is still a youthful bright straw/lemon/green. The nose exudes the haunting, complex mineral, slate and chalky notes of the appellation, a strong lees-derived mealy overtone with hints of underripe melon and dried figs providing great interest underneath. Traces of butterscotch and toffe add more dimension, but only after several hours breathing. In the mouth, the wine displays plenty of vitality, crispness and that “well-worn” Chablis racy, flinty elegance with assertive minerally acidity counterbalancing the tart, lemon-tinged melony/mealy fruit. Only of moderate weight, the palate reveals a classical “peacock tail” finish as it slips too easily down the throat. Very little evidence of the thirteen per cent alcohol here, with the lengthy mouth-puckering dry finish providing the perfect ending to a very competent package. 90 points. Drink now-2015.