For those unaware about this domaine, this vineyard belonged to Bruno Clair’s mother, Genevieve Bartet. Until 1998, the wine was sold under the label Domain G. Bartet with Bruno controlling the cultivation and vinification since 1986. As from the 1999 vintage the wine has been marketed under the Domaine Bruno Clair label.

For those lovers of funky, feral Burgundy’s, this wine’s aromatics delivers in spades. Thankfully, allowing the wine to rest (i.e. no swirling), the damp earth, sous bois and barnyard dissipates to allow attractive aromas of sap, satsuma and well-hung game to provide a greater degree of interest and pleasure with suggestions of cardamon, smoke and malty oak following as top notes later. The palate appeals from the outset - typical for the vintage - revealing a tight personality, slightly green tinge to the plummy/cherry fruit, awash with bright acids and firm, resolute tannins, a decent departure and probably at least another decade of cellaring potential. 88 points today with a chance of a slightly higher score if the “cool” fruit can hold up while the acid and tannin soften and integrate. Very good indeed and verging on excellent, but no better on tonight’s performance. 13.5% A/V