For some months now I’ve been working my way through some very smart, mostly cooler-climate Aussie Chardonnay from the 2004/2005 vintage. Apart from not yet tasting the extremely well-reviewed 2005 LEAS (my bottle of 2004 LEAS didn’t present a problem with the high alcohol problem some scribes have mentioned) and the almost-impossible-to-get Giaconda, I’ve been most impressed with the quality and direction of many of the offerings from Toolangi, Pierro, Kooyong, Penfolds etc etc.

The general thrust of what I’ve liked ……

- a continuance of a more elegant/restrained style of Chardonnay with significant, but not over-the-top, complex barrel work.

- less time spent in less new French oak (more often than not a mixture of new and one-year-old barrels).

- seemingly, less reliance on cultured yeasts, added acidity and partial/full malolactic fermentation.

- far greater cellaring potential, hence even greater things in store for lover’s of more complex bottle-aged Chardonnay.

The only criticisms I can muster amount to …..

- the persistence of a few producer’s still sealing their wine with traditional corks

- alcohol levels creeping into the 14%+ range with some heat evident in the finish and a balance issue in the longer term.

- prices for some of the cult producer’s still out of whack with quality/reality (although I well understand why they can do it)

So, after a very long absence, I’m almost convinced to get back on the Aussie Chardonnay trail and may it continue to keep progressing in its current form and direction.