Archive for October, 2006
Grosset Watervale Riesling 2002 (screwcap)
Vented my concerns at my last bottle opened due to overpowering reductive characters on both nose and palate. Thought it opportune to crack another to compare.
Brilliant, starbright palest of straw/green colour. Sensational fresh aromatics of citrus blossoms, intense limey minerals and slightly browned wholemeal toast. The palate delivers an identical story; power-packed, incredibly well-delineated with laser-like focus, rapier minerally acidity supporting bucketloads of tight lime fruit. Finishes with sublime crispness, almost perfect equilibrium and astonishing length. 94 points. A thoroughly brilliant example with, perhaps, two decades of superior drinking ahead. Now my only concern is - why was this bottle so good and the last one so reductive? Perhaps one of the screwcap experts can enlighten me about such flagrant bottle variation from such a top producer?
Bottled under screwcap with an A/V of 13.0%
Dominique Laurent Beaune 1er Cru Veilles Vignes 1998
I remember reading somewhere, Laurent likes to show off this particular label of his considerable portfolio when he needs to impress someone of the results of his recent labours (remembering, of course, Laurent buys all his wine in as grapes or must). On tonight’s showing, I can see why!
Labelled by many scribes as Mr. 200% Oak (for his regular practise of racking new barrel into new barrel) this wine contradicts the (often justified) generalisation.
Displaying a rust-infused, deep plummy colour, the bouquet offers up wonderful spicy, sappy scents of Satsuma plum, sous bois, game pie, tomato leaf and a fair whack of quality savoury, malty, cinnamon-tinged French wood. The palate reveals a creamy old vine consistency, immaculate purity, layer upon layer of flavour and a rivetting texture. Blessed with an equilibrium rarely found in many lesser Burgundy labels, there’s a wealth of finely honed, slighty gritty, chalky tannins that counterbalance the rich plummy fruit. The acidity level is adequate to promote liveliness but the overall impression in the mouth is all about a fuller, fatter style of Pinot that works very well in this instance. To complete this appraisal, this 1er finishes with considerable aplomb - plenty of seriously good, resinous tannin and a replay of the sappy plums I’ve alluded to above. Drink now or over the next several years. 92 points. Noice job with this one, Dominique!
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