My first hit-out with this vineyard and vintage, although I have tried several bottles of the 1993 Clos des Chenes from this producer over the last several years.

Firstly, may I admit to having a soft spot for Volnay’s, especially of this class. My old friend, the late Tom Low, reminded me, on more than one occasion, that Volnay was revered by the ”aristocracy” for centuries, fetching far more than the current crop of favourites from Vosne-Romanee, Gevrey-Chambertin and Musigny. Funnily enough, there’s not a Grand Cru to be found in this appellation, a fact that makes the values of this underrated region all the better for the astute lover of fine Burgundy. Lafarge, in my mind, is at the top of the heap here, consistently producing succulent, feminine wines of great breed and class, although sometimes missing the sweet spot, as is the case with most producer’s from this variable climate.

This wine displays quite a mature hue with, initially, a reticent nose that opens, slowly but surely, with layer upon layer of finely meshed nuance building to a crescendo with several hours in the Riedel. Probably close to perfect to my liking, the nose eventually offers up mesmerising sappy morello’s and ripe green plums with hints of black truffles, sweet earth and deepset, background malty/caramel/savoury oak adding great depth and terrific authority. Overall, a presence of perfumed, perplexing pinosity rules the day here. Wonderful. The palate is absolutely delightful - silky, smooth and terribly long with gorgeous fruit, ripe acidity and far better, rounded tannin structure than any bottle of the, supposedly superior, Clos des Chenes, from the same vintage, demonstrates to date. Finishing with a slightly tart sappiness and lovely cherry/plum overtones, I would rate this wine at 93 points. Outstanding and worth every penny of the hundred dollars I forked out to secure the bottle. Bravo! Drink now to 2013+. 13% A/V