Readers familiar with my musings over the years will attest to my predilection for this winery. The decision to axe Dorrien as a “stand alone” label after this particular vintage has prompted a similar level of vehemence, but in this case, only dismay, for what I and many others consider to be an icon of the Australian wine industry. Since its inaugural vintage of 1971, Dorrien Cabernet represents the very best of what can be done with this grape variety in the warmer viticultural climes of the Barossa Valley. The decision from the corporate masters for Seppelt to cease production of this “jewel in the crown” and to concentrate solely on a “Victorian” portfolio has baffled me to a state of virtual senselessness. Recent alarming reports of Southcorp selling off the fortified division based at the magnificent historic Seppetsfield winery and, hence, well over a hundred years of world class winemaking heritage should only appease our concern once the operation is in safe hands, hopefully with the masterful James Godfrey still at the helm.

The 1999 Dorrien displays a vibrant deep ruby/purple with a polished hue, a bouquet featuring a gorgeous array of chocolate-coated black plums and currants, Provencale herbs, a little cedary/sandalwood character with a fair dollop of beautifully-judged toasty malty/savoury/vanillin oak providing weight and backbone. The palate has finally dropped some of its earlier oaky rawness, exhibiting a wealth of chocolatey black fruits, smooth texture, relatively understated acidity and some top-class fine-grained tannin on a protracted and most satisfying finish. A lovely wine and a fitting tribute to almost three decades of great wine folklore. 92 points. Drink now-2014.