Seventy-year old, dry grown, ungrafted Shiraz vines planted on the eastern side of the Barossa Ranges provide the basis for the iconic label from this famous family-run estate. Having drunk Henschke’s red wines for more than twenty years, this particular vintage of Mount Edelstone rates up there with the ‘78, ‘82, ’86, ‘88, ’90, ‘91, ‘92 and ‘93 as one of the best I’ve tried. Unfortunately, over recent years some well-documented incidences of brettanomyces and some difficult vintages have resulted in some indifferent publicity for C. A. Henschke & Co.. I’m confident, with the very well-received recent release of the 2002 reds, Stephen and Prue have got the ship back to into shape and before long will be back on the lofty pedestal on which they were revered by most critics and wine lover’s, the world over. Let’s hope that Mother Nature holds her part of the bargain on a more regular basis, too!

Still holding a youthful medium ruby with some purple hues, this terrific wine exudes an exquisite nose of integrated bitter chocolate, macerated plum and mulberry, some forest floor character over seductive, seasoned vanilla/savoury/spicy/mocha oak and the merest suggestion of, what I consider, most appealing dimethyl sulphide (cassis, green bean and sweet corn). In the mouth, the creamy old vine texture imparts a sense of smoothness and sophistication. Riddled with exact nuance found in the bouquet, I could not detect the alcohol by volume of fouteen point two per cent, such is the intensity and purity of fruit with the complex oak, again, playing a minor supportive role on only a medium-bodied frame. There’s enough bright acidity giving the wine freshness and vitality and the tannins are uber sleek and very fine - both near-perfectly meshed as this gem glides down the throat. To complete the picture, the finish is awfully long, quite elegant and harmonious with, you guessed it, the old vine fruit doing most of the talking. Outstanding. 94 points. Drink now-2014. The best bottle I’ve tried thus far (and I’m onto my second case).