On the evening of March 30, 2006, I wrote the following tasting note on the abovementioned wine -

Finally, tonight I cracked my unopened timber box of the Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage “Les Varonnieres” 1999 - a profound, virile, plump, juicy Syrah revealing a very deep ruby colour, gorgeous old-vine creamy nose of blood plums, spicy new oak and new leather with hints of blackberry, licorice and a subtle floral top note. Plush but suave and relatively easy to drink, the palate offers up a slightly less inspiring replica of the bouquet’s constituents with a dash of cherry thrown in for good measure. There’s a good whack of acid and the savoury oak is yet to quite fully integrate with the ripe fruit. Only medium-bodied this wine finishes dry and long with great persistence of grainy tannins just overpowering, at the minute, classy savoury/berry flavours. Bordering on Outstanding, I’m now “over the moon” I opened my first bottle tonight. Expect superior drinking over next 5-8 years, once the wine fully matures on the palate. This Syrah almost compares (just a notch below) with the best Crozes-Hermitage I’ve ever tried - Paul Jaboulet’s fabulous 1990 Domaine Thalabert.

Last Saturday, Tim Kirk mentioned he’d bought some of this and found it decidedly bretty and most disappointing. I recently secured another 6 pack and have just cracked a bottle tonight to compare and upon opening there’s brett aplenty on the nose. The only saving grace is once given some air, the worst of the brett blows off. The palate seems relatively intact - lovely fruit and fine tannins - if anything, a little better than what I experienced above! Ultimately, a Very Good rating tonight - 87 points. 

Getting the very affable Tim Kirk to attend a wine dinner has been quite a difficult task, but last Saturday night the regular wine group also got to meet, for the first time, Tim’s lovely wife, Lara, at the Rubicon Restaurant in Griffith, Canberra with the Rhone being designated as the evening’s red wine theme. Also in attendance was my very old friend and confidant Paul “The Godfather” Heimburger, who flew in, without notice, from the Gold Coast, due to his elderly aunt’s sudden passing the previous day.

We opened proceedings with the Pol Roger 1996 Chardonnay (90 points) displaying an extremely youthful colour and finest of bead. Housing a rivetting bouquet of lightly charred brioche, toasted hazelnuts over honeydew melon and a little citrus followed by a fine, lively palate with abundant acid tending to smother some very classy fruit and toasty autolysis characters on a lengthy, very dry, mouth-puckering finish. Without a doubt this excellent aperitif-styled sparkler will provide ample enjoyment for another decade or more, but in this instance, the palate failed to deliver the necessary balance to merit a higher rating. Previous bottles have all looked far superior. The almost diametrical 1976 Pol Roger Vintage Brut revealed a light burnished orange gold colour, no discernible bead, posessing a somewhat oxidised but pleasant bouquet of burnt honey, caramel, grilled nuts and apricot followed by a slightly tired, madeirised palate devoid of mousse but of reasonable length with a twist of acid help save the finsh. Time has got the better of this old dame. 80 points.

Two Chardonnay’s followed - the Oakridge 864 2004 (Yarra Valley, Victoria, 86 points) received some vigorous debate at our end of the table with others (Tim and Tony) far more impressed than moi. A complex worked lees bouquet of bacon fat, char, smoke, struck match/sulphides and grilled nuts under what I can only describe as resiny, phenolic oak. The palate is quite powerful with ample body, some attractive fig and lime fruit but suffers, again, from overpowering barrel ferment characters and more of the extractive, grainy oak found in the bouquet. Later Tony mentioned this wine received no malolactic fermenation which may account for some of the rough edges that time may rectify. To my way of thinking, an enigmatic style of Chardonnay - and as Tim said - a style that show judges might find to their liking. Give me a Raveneau, with some age on it, instead. The second Chardonnay, Rene Lequin-Colin’s 2003 Chassagne-Monrachet “Les Caillerets” opened dissapointingly with a musky/confected aroma with only hints of any barrel work. Similarly, the palate failed to rock my boat - 78 points at best. What a surprise when revisiting this much later in the night to find a wine of far better nuance, much better weight and an impressive long complex finish - more like 88 points!

Tim generously brought along his unreleased 2005 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier, a wine that has received critical acclaim from wine scribes and wine lovers the world over for some years now. This upcoming vintage will, no doubt, continue the tradition. Attractive deep ruby, opening with overt, lifted peppery characters retracting quickly to reveal a beautiful perfume of violets, blackberry, spiced grilled meats, a little apricot over perfectly-judged savoury oak. The palate follows on where the bouquet finishes, elegant but gushing with silky black fruit, a lovely floral component and a structure to die for. I thought the fine, lacey tannins and acidity to be of the highest order. To cap off a marvellous experience the wine resolves with a classic “peacock tail” finish. 95 points. Great as it is today, my only concern is how long this beauty will last.

So onto the night’s main theme of Rhone reds - my comments below are mostly vibes/impressions -  

Cuilleron-Gaillard-Villard Cote-Rotie “Essatailles” 1999 - 90 points - vibrant perfumed nose of black fruit, apricot and musk - solid palate of mainly plummy fruit - didn’t improve in the glass - better earlier I thought - first try of this joint effort - suggest a drink now proposition.

Chapoutier Cote-Rotie “La Mordoree” 1989 - 88 points - older style - licorice, blackberry and saddle leather - palate just starting to dry out - lacks the complexity of the better/more recent examples from this maker.

Chapoutier Ermitage “La Pavillon” 1994 - 93 points - much fresher than the last bottle tried last year - great winemaking - very pure - game, red fruits galore, very savoury and leathery - lovely structure - excellent potential for the longer haul.

Jaboulet Hermitage “La Chapelle” 1982 - 95 points - Exceptional - at the peak of its powers but still vibrant with everything in perfect harmony - have always loved this wine - will hold for some time yet - wonderful roasted creme de cassis fruit mixed with new leather and a Christmas cake complexity - fantastic structure - if only they made them like this these days. My WOTN - pipping the 2005 Clonakilla by a whisker!

Domaine Courbis Cornas “Les Eygats” 1998 - 78? points - Although low level TCA-affected, the underlying, relatively unaffected remnants gave some pleasure to this taster - would like to retaste this from a “good” bottle - judgement deferred

Domaine Courbis Cornas ”La Sabarotte” 1998 - 91 points - Blood, iron, minerally with good fruit, nice earthy/tarry complexity underneath - excellent delineation - will get better too - very impressed with this - top flight Cornas.

Thanks be to Deb, Tony, Tim, Lara, Jamie, Beck and Paul for their generous contributions and fine fellowship.
  

One of my favourite Burgundian producer’s, this bottle harks back to the form I grew to expect with this specific label and vintage with the first few bottles opened. The last bottle tried (with a good friend) was so badly bacterially spoiled, I likened it to treated sewerage water. Now that I’ve got off my chest, onto the joys of this particular bottle …..

An attractive solid medium ruby with a smidge of amber and rust in the meniscus. Gorgeously perfumed feminine bouquet of spring flowers, black plums and cherries, subtle sweet earth/sappy notes, perfectly-judged background savoury oak and a beguiling top note of mixed spices (perhaps a little clove and cinammon). Close to perfect to my liking. In the mouth this wine excels with a sleek, svelte entry of beautifully ripened Pinot fruit (aka the nose), terrific mouthfeel and texture, positively counterbalanced by bright acidity and ripe, grippy, fine-grained tannins providing quite an awesome structure. Of medium weight, wonderful purity, great poise, harmony as well as exceptional length, this rates as the best Red Burgundy I’ve tried this year, pipping Rousseau’s 1990 Clos St. Jacques by a couple of points. A wine of elegance, subtlety but brimming with mind-blowing complexity and controlled intensity. Exceptional. 95 points. Drink now-2016+

13% A/V. 60% new oak

Footnote: Just a short explanation for the lack of any particular vineyard mentioned in the header. When a producer blends the grapes from two or more 1er Cru vineyards the vineyard’s names can’t be published on the label. In this case, Alain Meunier blended juice from “Feusselottes” and “Chatelots” - sometimes necessary when the Domaine’s vineyard holdings are just too small to make commercially viable quantities of either.  

Reveals a youthful, saturated dark ruby colour with only minimal bricking in the edges. The deep, brooding bouquet abounds with damp earth, spice, game, plenty of savoury oak over deepset sappy/plummy fruit. Similarly etched in the mouth, this flavoursome, youthful Burg needs more time. Gobs of Satsuma plum, game and pinot sap are, presently, just a little at out of whack with mouth-puckering acidity and plenty of grip from fine-grained, but powerful, drying tannins. Exceedingly long power-packed finish. At least 3 or 4 years further cellaring required. It should last another decade thereafter. I believe there’s sufficient fruit in reserve to handle this proposition. 92 points today, with, hopefully, a higher rating sometime early in the next decade. Big, bruiser of a pinot, very much in the Leroy style. 13% A/V 

Supposedly a ‘declassified’ Leonay, this wine continues to evolve slowly and surely with excellent mid- to long-term prospects. 12% A/V. Sealed under cork.

Glowing straw/light gold with a tinge of green. Reveals an ethereal bouquet of blossoms, minerals, toast, lime, a hint of petrol and the merest suggestion of passionfruit. The palate follows along identical lines displaying wonderful purity and definition, crunchy fruit, terrific acid cut, superb balance and a crisp, refreshing finish of some duration. Drink now-2015. Verging on an outstanding rating. 90 points.

Holding a very deep ruby with only a touch of brick in the edge. Quintessential minty Coonawarra Cabernet bouquet of weedy blakcurrants, spicy/cedary/savoury oak, freshly turned sod, fresh sweet corn, some leafiness and a hint of lift at the death. The medium-weight palate continues the high standard with gorgeous flavours of dusty blackcurrants, complimentary savoury oak, some menthol/mint regional character, lively acidity and some grainy, firmish tannin. Seemingly needs more time to fully mesh and soften. Excellent resolute finish with much promise for the long haul. Amazing wine for what it is. 92 points. Drink now-2016 13.5% A/V

Drunk the remainder of the bottle 24 hours later with the firm tannins/finish smoothing out beautifully. Not a sign of oxidation either. Super wine!     

Screwcap. 12% A/V

Colour is bright straw with a petrolly nose over lime, a dash of honey and a hint of toast lurking underneath. Still fresh on the palate although slightly phenolic with crunchy lime and toasty fruit married to well-integrated acids. Finishes a little short. A much more impressive wine at release. I’d opt for drinking this sooner than later. 83 points.  

13% A/V

I bought a case of this on spec after a rapturous review from Huon Hooke in the Sydney Morning Herald. From memory, he rated this far superior, on that paticular day, to the prestigious “La Chapelle” of the same year.

Medium ruby with some brick and rust in the outer edges, the wine opens with a lovely perfume of rose petals quickly followed by most attractive cooked plums with hints of hung “deli” meats, savoury/cinammon oak, sweet earth and Asian spices adding complexity. Of medium body, the svelte palate brims with ripe damson plum, blackberry and blueberry fruit backed by an intriguing almalgam of meaty/savoury/spicy/miso oak-derived characters with pleasing, refreshing acid and classy fine tannins providing the necessary structure to award this an Outstanding rating of 91 points. Displaying a creamy texture, ample generosity of flavour and an impressive, lengthy, sweet, mouth-filling departure, this wine will continue to improve and provide superior drinking over the next five to ten years. Great effort, FWII!

I’ve waxed lyrical about this wine from release, purchasing two dozen (not by choice, but as fate has it, a dozen each in cork and screwcap) and with some slightly disappointing commentary on various boards of late, decided to try another cork-sealed version to verify the concerns of the “Doubting Thomas’s”.

Firstly, I’ve seen no bottle variation under cork thus far - the wine continues to impress and has considerable time on its side. Again, I rate this as the best Petaluma Riesling ever made.

A bright, very pale straw/green colour, this superb Riesling, initially, delivers a reticent musky bouquet of white flowers before a flood of profound, intense, quintessential Clare lime and green apple fruit with a rivetting back-end of minerals and slate building in intensity and posture with airing. In the mouth the purity and crispness of the classic lime, Granny Smith and honeysuckle fruit is perfectly counterbalnced with a chalky minerality; packs plenty of punch, finishing very dry and long, the cleansing acidity providing focus and superb delineation. A brilliant wine! 94 points. Drink anytime from now-2017. 12% A/V   

Sealed with a stelvin screwcap. 12.5% A/V

Infantile gleaming pale straw/green. Opened with a disturbingly excessive oily/petrolly bouquet, bordering on the reductive, thankfully almost totally dissipating with a good breathe. What follows is much more in keeping with my recollection when last tasted - an ethereal mix of honeyed toast, lime juice with an intense slate and minerale top note. Just a residue of the initial ”petrolly” character now adds to the overall equation. Brimming with gob-smacking, mineral-laden lime and redcurrant fruit, this most impressive, youthful Aussie Riesling displays the requisite integrated, crisp acidity and length of palate for a relatively long stint in any cool, dark cellar. Drink 2008-2016. (90 points)